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		<title>SymbiotDesign.com : Blog about gear trips and more!</title>
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		<description><![CDATA[©2010 Symbiot]]></description>
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			<title>SymbiotDesign.com : Blog about gear trips and more!</title>
			<description><![CDATA[SymbiotDesign.com : Blog about gear trips and more!]]></description>
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		<copyright>Copyright 2010, Symbiot</copyright>
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			<title>Urban Biking</title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100621-211719</link>
			<description><![CDATA[You might have noticed a lot of new bike lanes popping up in your metro area. If so there are probably lots of you who want to know about getting around your city safely. Some of you might have seen a while back Symbiot gave a guide to bike safety. As informative as that was I&#039;ve decided to add a much needed amendment to give the many new urban bicyclist a heads up to what you really need to know and watch out for when riding. <br /><br />First off the basics still apply. <br />-Wear A helmet<br />-Keep your bike in proper working order<br />-Don&#039;t do anything stupid<br /><br />Second there are things you need to look out for when riding. Below is a list that applies to my experiences of riding in NYC. Some cities may order their dangers a little differently. For instance pedestrians in NYC are the worst but in Philadelphia cars are the worst. <br />-Pedestrians<br />-Car without Turn signals<br />-Cabs<br />-Attractive People, I know you&#039;re looking<br />-Truck/Car Mirrors<br />-Other Bikers<br />-Cars<br />-Buses/Trucks<br /><br />Third there is a wealth of information out there that will guide you around your metro area safely. <br />Below are a few links to some major metro areas to help you can get around, and of course you could always use google bike maps. <br /><a href="http://www.nycbikemaps.com/" target="_blank" >NYC Bike Map</a> <br /><a href="http://egov.cityofchicago.org/Transportation/bikemap/keymap.html" target="_blank" >City of Chicago Bike Map</a> <br /><a href="http://www.transalt.org/files/resources/maps/pa/philadelphia.pdf" target="_blank" >Philadelphia Bike Map</a> <br /><a href="http://www.labikepaths.com//" target="_blank" >LA Bike Map</a> <br /><br /><a href="javascript:openpopup('images/mebike.jpg',864,637,false);"><img src="images/mebike.jpg" width=484 height=357 border=0 alt=''></a><br />]]></description>
			<category>Products/Tips</category>
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			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Jun 2010 01:17:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=06&amp;entry=entry100621-211719</comments>
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			<title>Navigate: Forests and Mountains</title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100614-144544</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Skirting Obstacles<br /><img src="images/forrestsmtns_obstacles.png" width=182 height=357 border=0 alt=''><br /><br />Whether in the Cascades or the Everglades, you typically can’t beeline toward your bearing; at some point, a blowdown, cliff band, pond, or some other barrier will block your path. To bypass it while still staying on course, do the following:<br /><br />1. Turn 90 degrees right or left from your bearing. You don’t have to calculate a new bearing—just sight along the front or back edge of your compass’s baseplate, perpendicular to the direction-of-travel arrow.<br /><br />2.  Count paces until you&#039;re past the obstacle. A pace is a double-step—count every left or right footstep. (The original Roman “mile” was 1,000—or mille—double-steps.)<br /><br />3. Turn and walk your original bearing until you&#039;ve passed the obstacle. Now turn 90 degrees again—leftward if you turned right at the start and vice versa. Count the same number of paces; then resume your original course.<br /><br />Pace counting is rarely effective beyond about 200 paces—roughly a quarter-mile. To improve accuracy, note the time you travel on the outward leg, and try to match both time and pace count on the return leg.  <br /><br />Got Height?<br />You can easily pinpoint your position along a trail, creek, or ridgeline using just an altimeter and map. First, check the altitude on your altimeter. Then find the contour line closest to your elevation, and note where it intersects the trail, stream, or ridge. That is where you are. This technique works best during a steady ascent or descent, since undulating trails or rolling terrain may cross a contour line multiple times.]]></description>
			<category></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/?entry=entry100614-144544</guid>
			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:45:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=06&amp;entry=entry100614-144544</comments>
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			<title>Tune up your Bike!</title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100505-153553</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Now that it&#039;s warm out we all have been riding our bikes more. Here is a great guide to giving your bike the tune up it needs. <br /><br />Depending how much work is needed you’ll need a several tools for this job. Most importantly you’ll need:<br /><br />    * Dish soap, water and some rags.<br />    * Chain oil and a light lubricant like Tri-Flow.<br />    * An air pump and tire pressure gauge.<br />    * A set of metric allen wrenches (4-8mm).<br />    * A set of metric open-end wrenches (8-17mm).<br />    * Two 13mm and two 15mm cone wrenches.<br />    * A set of appropriate sized headset wrenches.<br />    * A spoke wrench for wheel truing.<br />    * A chain wear indicator – Alternate Method.<br />    * A repair stand or some rope to hang your bike from the ceiling.<br /><br />Wheel Cleaning and Tuning<br /><br />First disconnect your brakes and remove both wheels. This makes it easier to clean the bike frame and tune-up the wheels. Clean between the sprockets of your freewheel or cassette using a rag or a proper cleaning tool. Using a dry rag, wipe down the hubs, spokes, and rims on both wheels. If they are difficult to clean dip your rag in some mildly soapy water and try again. Never use harsh cleaners or a water hose to clean your bike. Check both hub adjustments to make sure they aren’t loose and that they spin freely. Adjust or overhaul them as necessary.<br /><br />If you have a truing stand, deflate the tires and check the alignment and spoke tension of both wheels and adjust them as needed. Inflate both tires to the recommended pressure and set them aside.<br />Frame Cleaning<br /><br />Now wipe down your entire bike frame and components. I usually start at the handlebar and work my way to the rear derailleur in order to keep my rag clean as long as possible. Again you can dampen your rag with soapy water if needed to loosen up any tough grime.<br />Frame and Parts Inspection<br /><br />Once clean it’s a good idea to carefully inspect the entire surface of your frame for any hairline cracks or damage. If you notice anything you should take it to your local shop right away for further assessment, as it can be dangerous to ride on a cracked frame. Inspect all of your components as well, paying particular attention to the brake and shift cables. If they are frayed or have damaged housings, now is the time to replace them.<br />Lubrication<br /><br />Now apply a few drops of some light lubricant to the inside of your cable housings and all of the pivot points on your brake and shift components. Avoid getting any oil on your brake pads, and wipe off any excess so that it doesn’t collect dirt. Here’s a video that demonstrates cable lubrication.<br />Headset and Bottom Bracket<br /><br />Check the adjustment of both your headset and bottom bracket to make sure they aren’t loose and spin smoothly.<br />Brakes<br /><br />Inspect all of your brake pad surfaces and carefully trim away any wear ridges with a razor blade. Resurface them with rough sandpaper to clean up road grime. You should replace the pads if they are worn past the indicator line, or if you can see metal poking through the surface. Watch the brake tutorials.<br />Tightening<br /><br />Now check all of the bolts on your bike to make sure they’re tight, but be careful not to over-tighten. If they already feel tight enough don’t force them any tighter. Important areas to check include your handlebars, levers, shifters, stem, seat, seatpost, brakes, derailleurs, cranks and pedals.<br /><br /><br />Final Adjustments<br /><br />Now reinstall the wheels and reconnect your brakes. Adjust the brake pads and cable tension as needed. Clean the chain, check for chain wear, and then lubricate it with chain oil. Then adjust the rear derailleur first, and the front derailleur second. Now place the bike on the ground and adjust your handlebar and seat position if needed.<br />Test Ride<br /><br />The last step is very important. Take your bike on a thorough test ride, running through all of the gears and testing the brakes. Most of the time you’ll have a few minor re-adjustments to make before your bike is fully ready to ride.<br /><br />Thanks to bicycletutor.com for this guide. ]]></description>
			<category></category>
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			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 May 2010 19:35:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=05&amp;entry=entry100505-153553</comments>
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			<title>Happy Earth Day</title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100422-114903</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Happy Earth Day! 40 years!<br /><br />Everyone should take some time out of this day to celebrate this amazing planet that we call home. Take some time to take a walk, smell some flowers and hug some trees. Also take this day to think about what you&#039;re doing to be a good steward of  Earth. Did you turn off the lights when you left the room? Did you recycle that water bottle from earlier today, and hopefully you’re turning the water off at the sink when you’re brushing your teeth. Remember every little thing you do will all add up. Think!<br /><br /><a href="javascript:openpopup('images/earthday-759738.jpg',537,350,false);"><img src="images/earthday-759738.jpg" width=484 height=315 border=0 alt=''></a>]]></description>
			<category>News</category>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/?entry=entry100422-114903</guid>
			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:49:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=04&amp;entry=entry100422-114903</comments>
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			<title>Trail Nutrition: Eat For Recovery </title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100422-100058</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<img src="images/clifroks_Symbiot_Sportback.jpg" width=445 height=260 border=0 alt=''><br /><br /><br />“Carbs are critical to recovery, but they can’t do the job alone,” says Stacy Sims, Ph.D., an exercise physiologist and sports nutritionist at Stanford University. “To get glycogen into your body and repair the muscle microtears that occur during any strenuous workout, you need protein.” To reap the benefits, Sims recommends eating 20 grams of protein immediately after a hike or workout (also snack on protein-rich foods throughout the day, aiming for a total of .6 gram per pound of body weight on high-exertion days). Whey, egg, and soy sources are easiest to digest. We tested 10 recovery products to bring you the three best new choices—plus one old favorite.<br /><br />Best for workouts Hammer Nutrition Recoverite<br />Testers reported noticeably less next-day fatigue when they downed a Recoverite after a tough hike. This milky drink hits the sweet spot with a 3:1 ratio of complex carbs to whey protein isolate (an easy-to-digest protein derived from milk) and it’s full of antioxidants and electrolytes. Best flavor: strawberry. Calories 170 Fat 0 g Carbs 33 g Protein 10 g ($2.69 per packet; hammernutrition.com)<br /><br />Best for the trail Clif Shot Roks<br />Crunchy on the outside and nougat-soft in the middle, these malted milk ball-like bites are easy to pop on the move and contain two grams of highly digestible protein per piece. Testers reported that the Roks prevented bonking on long days and reduced muscle fatigue the morning after. Bonus: Roks never melted, even in the hottest summer weather. Best flavor: peanut butter. Calories 270 Fat 4.5 g Carbs 38 g Protein 20 g ($3; clifbar.com)<br /><br />Best for a sweet tooth PowerBar Recovery <br />This caramel-filled, chocolaty bar may taste like junk food, but its 12 grams of highly digestible whey and soy protein isolates elevate it above typical vending machine fare. It’s like a candy bar with nutritional value and full recovery benefits. Best flavor: peanut butter caramel crisp. Calories 270 Fat 10 g Carbs 30 g Protein 12 g ($1.60; powerbar.com)<br /><br />Best value Eggs <br />This favorite meets all our essential amino acid requirements and packs six grams of easy-to-absorb protein per egg—and is also an excellent source of antioxidants like choline and selenium. Carry them in a reusable plastic egg crate, crack a few into a water bottle and scramble them in camp, or hard-boil a few and stash them in a plastic bag (in cool weather, they’ll last for 48 hours). Calories 78 Fat 5 g Carbs .5 g Protein 6 g ($.25 per egg)]]></description>
			<category>Products/Tips</category>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/?entry=entry100422-100058</guid>
			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:00:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=04&amp;entry=entry100422-100058</comments>
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			<title>Knowing when your running shoes are DONE</title>
			<link>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/index.php?entry=entry100406-201911</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<a href="javascript:openpopup('images/running.jpg',849,566,false);"><img src="images/running.jpg" width=484 height=323 border=0 alt=''></a><br /><br />So how do you know when your running shoes need to be retired? I can tell you that smelling them is not a good idea and don&#039;t use the treads of your running shoes to determine whether you should replace your shoes. The midsole, which provides the cushioning and stability, usually breaks down before the bottom shows major signs of wear. If you&#039;ve been feeling muscle fatigue, shin splints, or some pain in your joints -- especially your knees -- you may be wearing running shoes that no longer have adequate cushioning.<br /><br />A good rule of thumb is to replace your running shoes every 300 to 400 miles, depending on your running style, body weight, and the surface on which you run. Smaller runners can get new running shoes at the upper end of the recommendation, while heavier runners should consider replacement shoes closer to the 300 mile mark. If you run on rough roads, you&#039;ll need to replace your running shoes sooner than if you primarily run on a treadmill.<br /><br />Mark your calendar when you buy a new pair of running shoes so you remember when to replace them. If you use a training log, be sure to record when you bought new shoes -- it will help you track how many miles you&#039;ve run in them. Writing the purchase date on the inside of each shoe&#039;s tongue is another good way to help remember when you first started running in them.<br /><br />About halfway through the life of your running shoes, you might want to buy another pair of running shoes to rotate into your runs. Your shoes will last longer when you allow them to decompress and dry out between workouts. Also, having a fresh pair of shoes as a reference will help you notice when your old ones are ready to be replaced.<br /><br />]]></description>
			<category>Products/Tips</category>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/?entry=entry100406-201911</guid>
			<author>symbiot@symbiotdesign.com</author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 07 Apr 2010 00:19:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<comments>http://www.symbiotdesign.com/core/comments.php?y=10&amp;m=04&amp;entry=entry100406-201911</comments>
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